Made to measure, bespoke or off the rack: what is the difference?
Off the rack, made to measure and bespoke explained honestly: how each suit is cut, how it fits, how long it takes, and how made to measure works at YB.
Off the rack suits are made in standard sizes for no one in particular. Made to measure suits are cut from an established pattern adjusted to your own measurements. Bespoke suits are drafted from a new pattern made only for you, usually over several fittings. Each has its place, and the right choice depends on your build, your budget and how much time you have.
Off the rack: ready today, made for an average
An off the rack suit is cut to a size chart, sewn in volume and sold finished. You can walk out wearing it, which is its great strength. The trouble is that a size chart describes an average body, and very few men are average in every direction at once.
A man with broad shoulders and a slim waist finds the jacket fits his shoulders and hangs loose at the waist. A taller man finds the sleeves and the jacket short. Alterations help with sleeves, trouser length and waist, but a good alterations tailor will tell you plainly what cannot be changed: the shoulders, the jacket length, the balance between front and back, and the shape of the lapel.
Buy off the rack when your build is close to the sample size, when you need a suit this week, or when the suit will only see occasional wear.
Made to measure: your measurements, a proven pattern
Made to measure starts with a well tested base pattern, then adjusts it to you. A fitter takes your measurements and looks at how you stand: a dropped shoulder, a forward posture, a prominent seat, one arm a little longer than the other. Those details go into the cut before any cloth is touched.
You also choose almost everything a bespoke client chooses: the cloth, the lining, the lapel, the shoulder, the buttons, the pockets, the vents and the trouser details. The result is a suit that fits your body rather than a size, with your own character in it.
The limits are honest ones. Because it begins from a base pattern, made to measure has less room for very unusual figures than a fully bespoke garment, and it usually involves fewer fittings. For most men, measured and fitted well, the difference is hard to see.
Bespoke: a pattern drawn from nothing
In traditional bespoke tailoring, a cutter drafts a paper pattern from scratch for one person. The suit is cut, loosely basted together and tried on, often more than once, before it is finished. Much of the construction is done by hand, from the canvas inside the chest to the buttonholes.
That process gives the cutter complete freedom to solve any fit problem, and it gives the client a garment that is entirely his. It also takes the most time and costs the most. Bespoke rewards patience: it suits a man who knows what he wants, can attend several fittings, and plans to wear the suit for many years.
Be careful with the word. It is used loosely, and some suits sold as bespoke are made to measure by another name. Ask how the pattern is made and how many fittings are included.
How the three compare
- Fit: off the rack fits a size; made to measure fits your measurements; bespoke fits a pattern drawn only for you.
- Choice: off the rack offers what is on the rail; made to measure and bespoke let you choose the cloth, lining and details.
- Time: off the rack is immediate; made to measure takes weeks; bespoke usually takes longer, with more fittings.
- Construction: off the rack is often fused; made to measure and bespoke can be canvassed, with more handwork the further up you go.
How made to measure works at YB
Our made to measure follows four steps, and nothing is rushed.
- Consultation. You book an obligation free consultation. We talk about where the suit will be worn, how you like to dress and what you need it to do.
- Design and fit. A trained fitter takes over 25 measurements, so the garment is designed for your physique. You choose the cloth from a wide selection of European and Japanese fabrics, then the lining, lapel, shoulder and details.
- Review. Garments are ready in 3 to 8 weeks, depending on the make and the cloth, so mention any event date when you book. At a follow up fitting, our own in house tailors make any adjustments.
- Reorder. We keep your pattern on file, so your next suit is simple.
Choosing a line
We make three made to measure lines. YB Upscale, from $1,245, is our affordable made to measure line and a real step up from off the rack. YB Premium, from $1,795, uses Italian fabrics with our signature soft shoulder and wide lapels, and comes with a complimentary shirt. YB Signature, from $2,495, is made by hand using traditional tailoring methods in our Italian based atelier, and includes a one on one masterclass with the designer.
All three are made to measure. If hand construction and traditional methods matter most to you, Signature is the line to look at.
Which should you choose?
If your build matches standard sizes and you need a suit now, off the rack is sensible. If you want a suit that fits your body and reflects your taste, without the time and cost of a fully bespoke commission, made to measure is the natural choice for most men. If you want a pattern drawn from nothing and have time for several fittings, look at bespoke.
Before you decide, you can try on a YB suit in our virtual fitting room and see yourself in six YB looks across the city, a dinner and a meeting. When you are ready, read more about our made to measure suits or book a fitting, and we will start with your measurements.
See yourself in YB before you book.
Try On Your Suit
