A guide to shirt collars and cuffs

The right shirt collar depends on your face, your tie and the occasion: a point collar for narrow knots and rounder faces, a semi spread for almost everything, a spread or cutaway for larger knots and longer faces, and a button down for smart casual. For cuffs, a barrel cuff is the everyday choice and a French cuff with cufflinks is the formal one. Whatever you choose, about half an inch of cuff should show beyond the jacket sleeve.

Shirt collars

Point collar

The points sit close together and run down towards the chest. A classic business collar that pairs with a narrow knot such as a four in hand, and it lengthens a rounder face.

Semi spread

The most versatile collar. The points open a little wider than a point collar, leaving room for a four in hand or a half Windsor. If you own only one collar style, make it this one.

Spread

The points open wide towards the shoulders. It frames a fuller knot, looks strong under a wide lapel and balances a longer, narrower face.

Cutaway

An extreme spread, with the points swept back almost horizontally. Confident and continental in feel. It needs a substantial knot, or it can be worn open necked under a jacket.

Button down

The points fasten to the shirt with small buttons, giving the collar a soft roll. It belongs with odd jackets, knitwear and weekends rather than a formal suit, and it looks excellent without a tie.

Club collar

A collar with rounded points. It has a vintage, slightly dandy character and pairs well with a slim knot or a collar pin.

Wing collar

A short standing band with small points folded down, worn for formal evening dress. It is correct for white tie, and some men wear it for black tie, though a turndown collar is the more usual partner for a dinner suit. Our tuxedos and black tie page covers evening dress in full.

Matching the collar to your face, tie and lapel

The collar frames your face, so use it to balance your proportions:

• Round or broad face: a point collar or semi spread adds length.
• Long or narrow face: a spread or cutaway adds width.
• Long neck: a slightly taller collar band; a shorter neck suits a lower band.

Next, match the knot to the collar opening. A four in hand fits a point or semi spread collar; a half Windsor fills a semi spread or spread; a full Windsor needs a wide spread or a cutaway.

Finally, keep everything in proportion. A wide lapel looks right with a wider tie and a more open collar, while a narrow lapel calls for a slimmer tie and a closer collar.

Cuffs

Barrel cuff

The everyday cuff, fastened with one or two buttons. A single button is the cleanest; two buttons give a slightly dressier look.

French or double cuff

A long cuff folded back on itself and fastened with cufflinks. It is the more formal option, right for weddings, evening events and business days when you want to look finished, and it is traditional with black tie.

Convertible cuff

A single cuff with a button and a buttonhole on both sides, so it can be fastened with the button or with cufflinks. Practical when you travel light.

How a shirt should fit

Collar

Buttoned, you should be able to slide two fingers between the collar and your neck. Any tighter and it pinches; any looser and the collar collapses under a tie. Cotton can shrink slightly over the first few washes, which is worth remembering.

Sleeve length

With your arm by your side, the cuff should sit where your wrist meets your hand and show about half an inch, roughly a centimetre, beyond your jacket sleeve. That small line of cuff is the mark of a shirt and suit that fit well together.

Body

The shirt should follow your torso without pulling at the buttons or billowing at the waist when tucked in. The shoulder seams should sit at the edge of your shoulders.

Shirt fabrics

• Poplin: a fine, smooth plain weave. Crisp, light and the classic business shirting.
• Twill: a diagonal weave with a soft sheen. It drapes well, resists creasing and feels slightly warmer.
• Oxford: a basket weave with a textured, sturdy handle. Made for button down collars and casual wear.
• End on end: a coloured yarn woven with a white yarn, giving a fine, almost speckled texture. It reads as a solid colour from a distance and is cool to wear.
• Linen: the coolest choice for a hot Melbourne summer, with a relaxed creasing that is part of its character.

Your collar, your cuff

With our made to measure shirts, you choose the collar, cuff and cloth, and the shirt is cut to your measurements. Our YB Premium suits come with a complimentary shirt, and YB Signature suits with two. To see how the whole look comes together, try on a YB suit in our virtual fitting room, then book a fitting with us.

Questions