Single vs Double Breasted Suits

A single breasted suit has one column of buttons and a narrow overlap at the front, and it is the everyday choice for work and most occasions. A double breasted suit has a wide overlap, two columns of buttons and usually peak lapels, giving a stronger, more formal line. Single breasted is the easier first suit; double breasted is the confident second one, and it is always worn buttoned.

The main differences

Front: single breasted fronts meet with a small overlap; double breasted fronts overlap widely across the body.
Buttons: one column, usually of one, two or three buttons; or two columns, usually of four or six.
Lapels: single breasted usually has a notch lapel; double breasted traditionally has a peak lapel.
Wearing: a single breasted jacket can be worn open; a double breasted jacket is designed to be fastened.
Feel: single breasted is versatile and easy; double breasted is structured, deliberate and a little more formal.

Single breasted button options

The two button jacket is the modern standard. It suits almost everyone and works for business and weddings alike. The one button jacket gives a deep, clean opening and is the classic for dinner jackets. A three button jacket, sometimes with the top button rolled into the lapel, has a softer, traditional character.

The rule for all of them: never fasten the bottom button. On a two button, fasten the top; on a three button, fasten the middle, or the top two.

Double breasted button configurations

Double breasted jackets are described by the number of buttons and how many of them fasten. "Six on two" means six buttons, two of which can be fastened.

Six on two

The classic. Three rows of two buttons, with the top row usually set a little wider apart for decoration. The jacket fastens at the middle row, at the waist, and the bottom button is often left undone. It gives a strong opening and a broad chest.

Six on one

Six buttons with only one that fastens, set low, so the lapels roll further down the chest. A more relaxed, lounging look.

Four on two

Two rows of two buttons. With no decorative top row, the line is simpler and a little more modern, and the jacket usually fastens at the upper row.

Four on one

Four buttons with one fastening button on the lower row, giving a long lapel roll and a low opening. It lengthens the torso and suits taller men well.

Inside every double breasted jacket there is also an anchor button, sometimes called a jigger, which holds the inner front in place. Fasten it too, so the front lies flat.

Lapels

Peak lapels, with points that sweep up towards the shoulders, are the traditional partner for a double breasted jacket. They draw the eye up and out and broaden the chest. Notch lapels are the standard for single breasted suits, though a peak lapel on a single breasted jacket is a smart, slightly dressier choice.

Width matters too. A wider lapel balances a broad double breasted front, while a narrow lapel can look lost on one. Keep your tie width in proportion to the lapel.

Who suits which?

Single breasted suits every build, which is why it makes the sensible first suit. Double breasted works best when it is cut closely for you. It adds presence and structure, which flatters slim and tall men in particular. Shorter men often do well in a four on two or a six on two with a slightly higher fastening, which keeps the line long. Broader men can wear it with confidence as long as the fit through the waist is clean and the jacket is never left flapping open. Made to measure removes most of the old worries, because the button position and overlap are set for your body.

Occasions

A navy or grey single breasted suit covers the office, interviews, weddings and formal occasions of every kind. Double breasted is a natural fit for days that reward a little flair: a wedding, the spring racing season, a dinner, or a meeting where you want to be remembered. In a dark cloth it is entirely at home in a city office, and a double breasted dinner jacket is a handsome choice for black tie.

How to wear a double breasted suit

Keep it buttoned whenever you stand. Worn open, a double breasted jacket hangs in folds of extra cloth.
Fasten the inside anchor button as well, so the front sits flat.
Unbutton only to sit, and fasten it again when you stand.
Keep the rest simple: a plain shirt, a tie or a bow tie and a pocket square. The jacket is already the statement.
Make sure it fits closely through the waist. A loose double breasted jacket looks boxy.

The YB shoulder and lapel

Our YB Premium line is cut in Italian fabrics with our signature soft shoulder and wide lapels. A soft shoulder keeps a double breasted jacket from feeling stiff, and a wide lapel gives the broad front proper balance. On a single breasted jacket the same combination looks relaxed and assured.

Whichever way you lean, our made to measure suits let you choose the front, buttons, lapel and shoulder. To see how each style looks on you before you decide, try on a YB suit in our virtual fitting room. Then book a fitting and we will help you settle it.

See yourself in YB before you book.

Try On Your Suit

Questions

Should a double breasted jacket always be buttoned?

Yes, whenever you are standing. Unbutton it to sit and fasten it again when you stand, because an open double breasted jacket hangs in loose folds of cloth.

What does six on two mean?

Six on two describes a double breasted jacket with six buttons, two of which can fasten. It is the classic configuration, usually fastened at the middle row.

Is double breasted more formal than single breasted?

Slightly, yes. The wide overlap and peak lapels give a more structured, deliberate look, although a dark double breasted suit is perfectly at home in a city office.